How To Tailor A Suit Jacket: Tailoring & Alterations Definitive GuidePaul Anthony2020-09-24T11:37:57-04:00
You’re going to need to have your suit jackets altered, hopefully by a tailor you can trust. Jackets are complex, but there are various alterations that can be done to make them look the way that they should.
In this guide, you will learn about the different jacket alterations, their estimated costs, and level of difficulty. Each jacket alteration has been broken down under the following categories:
- What Can Be Tailored On A Suit Jacket?
- Easy Jacket Alterations
- Challenging Jacket Alterations
Simply use the links above to jump ahead or scroll down to read it all.
More Alterations Guides
In this guide, you will learn about altering suit jackets. Want to learn about a different garment? Use the menu below!
Trousers / Pants Alterations
Waistcoat Alterations
Dress Shirt Alterations
Learn How A Suit Jacket Should Fit
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What Can Be Tailored On A Suit Jacket
What follows is a comprehensive list of common jacket alterations and their average prices in the Philadelphia market, organized by the ease of the completion.
Easy Jacket Tailoring Fixes
These are fixes that you should consider par for the course. When buying off the rack you should expect to need the odd alteration here and there to make your body type.
1 – Lower / Raise Jacket Collar (a.k.a. Square Back)
Sometimes a suit jacket will get a little fold in the fabric right below the collar in the back and/or won’t show enough shirt collar. This is referred to as a roll in the collar, and it must be lowered. This is not so much because it’s unsightly –though it is– but rather because it can decrease the lifespan of your jacket. Becauseyou won’t be able to see this without a three-way mirror, make sure you ask your tailor if there’s a roll in your collar.
If your jacket is showing too much shirt collar and / or standing away from it (this means that the jacket collar isn’t making contact with the shirt collar when being worn normally), it must be raised.
Estimated Cost: $20-30
2 – Take In / Let Out Jacket Side Seams
Fortunately, it’s a relatively easy and inexpensive job if you’re looking to take in or tailor a suit jacket waist. Most jackets will need this done and potentially more than once if you gain or lose weight.
If you’re slim, taking in the side seams will be necessary to give you the hourglass shape that a good jacket should have. If you’re a little bigger, letting them out will be necessary to give your lungs room to fill up with air.
Many tailors, even the good ones, will be conservative with this alteration, so if they’re pinning you up and you’d prefer more tapering, let him or her know.
Finally, bear in mind that a suit with a windowpane pattern may make this job more challenging as the tailor will try to make sure that they match up.
Estimated Cost: $30-40
3 – Take In / Let Out Jacket Center Seam
An American cut suit will generally have a seam that runs down the center of your jacket rather than the sides. If that area of the jacket is too loose or too tight, it can be taken in or let out relatively easily.
Furthermore, tailoring the waist of a single-vent suit is somewhat easier (and cheaper) than one with side vents. It’s partly for this reason that American suits feature only one vent. For a British cut suit (one with side vents) there shall be two seams at the sides of the back as described above.
Estimated Cost: $15-20
4 – Move Jacket Buttons
This is a neat, inexpensive tailoring trick if you only need a tiny bit of shape by taking in the jacket waist. The tailor will remove the buttons and move them over slightly so that the jacket fits more snugly.
Estimated Cost: $10
5 – Shorten / Lengthen Jacket Sleeves From Hem
Ready to wear (RTW)coats are generally made with a longer sleeve to accommodate most long-armed customers. If the sleevesneed to be shortened (as is always the case with this T-Rex-armed author), they cantypically be done soquite easily.
Lengthening them is also easy, as any RTW jacket worth buying will have extra material built into the sleeve’s hem.
Some jackets, however, will have surgeon’s cuffs (functional sleeve buttons), which can mess up the works a bit. Please see the next section for a fuller explanation.
Estimated Cost: $30
6 – Close Jacket Vent(s)
If you’re in love with a particular jacket but for some reason want it to be vent-less (sometimes referred to as an Italian style jacket), your tailor can close your vent (or vents) for you.
This is generally an aesthetic decision that has little to do with fit. Because vents are created from overlapping material, a ventless jacket cannot be given vents. Attempting to do so will result in an unsightly upside-down “V” around your rear end.
While this is an easy alteration, it can be time-consuming and is often not worth the money.
Estimated Cost: $35-40
Tougher But Feasible Jacket Alterations
These kinds of alterations are not considered optimal if a different jacket is available for purchase. If however, you’re in a time jam or just in love with the particular style/fabric then these are not total deal-breakers.
1 – Shorten Jacket Sleeves From Shoulder / Lengthen With Buttonhole
Note on surgeon’s cuffs: Most RTW jackets do not have surgeon’s cuffs and as such can be shortened or lengthened with ease by a competent tailor. With that said, there are more and more brands that are offering surgeon’s cuffs on RTW jackets, which can mess up the works a bit. The alterations can go one of a couple of ways:
Shorten Sleeves
A tailor will generally give the option to shorten from the hem and lose the buttonhole functionality (an easier, less expensive option) or to maintain that functionality and shorten from the shoulder (a more time-consuming and therefore more expensive option). If having surgeon’s cuffs is important to you then go with the latter option, butonly if you know your tailor to be quite competent. Shortening sleeves in this way will also affect how the armscye feels on your underarm, so keep that in mind as well.
Lengthen Sleeves
The only option for lengthening the sleeves is to do so from the hem. You’ll generally only have about a half an inch or so of wiggle room before the distance between the hem and the last button starts to look odd, so even if there’s enough extra material, it might not be an option unless the tailor has a buttonhole machine and can make an extra buttonhole to take up the space.
Estimated Cost: $50-90 per sleeve
2 – Shorten Jacket Collar
A common way to address a collar that stands away from the shirt you’re wearing. This is major surgery so it should only occur if you can’t find anything else that’s better right off of the hanger.
Estimated Cost: $70-80
3 – Pad Jacket Shoulders
Chances are you have one shoulder that rests higher than the other.
This is totally normal, but it can result in jacket shoulders that are uneven. A fix for this is to add a shoulder pad to the lower shoulder, thus bringing it “in line” with the other shoulder. Not tough for a good tailor to do, but if you ask Joe Shmoe Dry Cleaner to do it, you might not be happy with the outcome.
Estimated Cost: $30-50
4 – Reduce Jacket Chest
Like taking in side seams, but on the front of the jacket. Not a terrible job to do, but it involves opening up the chest and potentially messing around with the canvas therein, so this is not one you should give to a tailor who hasn’t yet earned your trust.
Estimated Cost: $90
Difficult, Impossible & Last Resort
These are the types of fixes that come in three main categories:
- You should have not purchased the garment in the first place!
- Straight up impossible, so go custom or keep looking…
- It’s a sentimental item, such as an inherited piece from your grandfather. In which case price/convenience is not at the top of your priority list.
Many men that are not your “average” height and build shall run into these required alterations and the ones aforementioned in the “tough” section above. If this is the case it may be worth exploring custom-made suits.
Made-To-Measure Jackets
Although custom clothing may sound like a pricey investment, there are some affordable options on the market. We’re particularly fond of Indochino, which produces made-to-measure suits for as little as $300. You can also enjoy 10% off your order when you spend more than $399 with our code “BESPOKEUNIT“.
Indochino has both physical and online stores. Our discount code works in both and you’ll have the additional benefit of being measured by a professional.
Alternatively, Black Lapel is a little more expensive but their fabrics and construction are better in quality. You can benefit from a $25 discount when using our code “FTOBESPOKEUNIT” when placing your order.
The upfront may be higher than some affordable suits. However, it’s about the same price or cheaper than other designer brands. Furthermore, but you’ll have no back-end tailoring costs as both brands offer alteration refund credits or in-house services. You’ll also have an overall better level of service and fit.
Finally, once you go custom you have the flexibility to choose all the elements of your garment, making it a truly one-of-a-kind item for you.
1 – Reduce Jacket Shoulder Points
If the shoulders of your jacket are wider than your own, the shoulder points will have to be reduced so you don’t look like you’re a linebacker in full protective gear. This is major surgery and is not recommended unless you have exhausted all other avenues for getting a better-fitting suit.
Estimated Cost: $90-100
2 – Rotate Jacket Sleeves
Jacket sleeves have a thing called “pitch” which refers to where the sleeve rests in relation to the front panels of the jacket.
This often differs from the “pitch” of our arms, but when the difference is great, you will see drastic rippling on the sleeves and possibly chest too.
This means that the sleeves need to be rotated to accommodate your arms and smooth everything out. The tailor will have to take the sleeves off, re-position them, and then reattach them. Again, this is a difficult job you should only have done as a last resort.
Estimated Cost: $90-100
3 – Alter Jacket Lapels
3 – Alter Jacket LapelsSometimes you just want to have a different look. We get that, but sometimes you can’t make something from nothing. There are three main lapel styles: peak, notch and shawl.
We would only ever say that a peak can be made into a notch lapel, but again it’s not something you would want to do unless it’s absolutely necessary.
Further, we hear from some of our readers about the desire to make their lapels “skinnier”. We’re glad to report that this happens less now as the pencil width lapel is falling out of favor. Again it’s “possible” however not advisable, as can alter the jacket beyond repair and ultimately look funky.
Estimated Cost: $100 / Impossible
4 – Change / Remove Jacket Pockets
We’re all for the ticket pocket, so adding one is okay, especially if it’s a besom pocket (a slit style). But is $100 worth the added style?
If, however, you’re looking for removal of a patch pocket, it would leave the jacket “naked”, and not break up its front.
Lastly, some guys don’t like flap pockets so ask to get them removed to become besom pockets. We say just tuck them in, and move on / buy the “right” jacket in the first place.
Estimated Cost: $100 / Impossible
5 – Shorten Jacket
When the jacket itself is too long and there are no other options, you can shorten it. We don’t recommend this, however, as it will often make the pockets look too close to the bottom of the jacket’s panels and thus throw the proportions off.
Estimated Cost: $90-100
Final Jacket Tailoring Reminder
You will most likely never be able to buy a non-custom jacket off the rack without having some alteration work done to it.
The trick is to make a smart purchase in the first place so as to minimize the work that needs to be done, thus managing your spend and decreasing the amount of time between purchase and first wear. God speed.
Other Tailoring Guides In The Series
As you may have noticed in the menu above, we have a number of other alteration guides that you can use when assessing the work that will need doing:
- How A Suit Jacket Should Fit
- How To Find A Good Tailor
- Trousers / Pants
- Waistcoat / Vest
- Dress Shirt
Alternatively, visit our main suit homepage for many more pages and free resources.
More Tailoring Guides
Our Newsletter
Best Of Bespoke Unit & the Web
73 Comments
PatSeptember 16, 2016 at 11:37 pm - Reply
I would like my existing suits to have surgeon cuffs added to them. Can this be done? If yes what is the cost?
Paul AnthonySeptember 20, 2016 at 10:55 am - Reply
Dear Pat,
Yes this can be done. Most modern sewing machines have preset button hole patterns.
The steps would be:
1) Remove the buttons
— May need to cut / un-stitch sleeve, this will add to cost
2) Use that button as a size guide for the new button hole outline (or can change buttons)
3) Decide on placement and number
4) Let sewing machine sew button hole pattern
5) Cut fabric
6) Sew buttons back onand there you have it…
As for cost, I’ve not done this but to sew a button on is usually around one to two dollars. For example to do eight buttons total, I would say $30 – 60 would be a fair price.
If you or someone you know has a sewing machine, might be worth giving it a try yourself…I would estimate it would take about 60-90 mins depending on your level of proficiency.
Hope that helps.
– Paul
MabelLucyFebruary 2, 2017 at 3:48 am - Reply
If take in the jacket do I have to take in the lining also?
Paul AnthonyFebruary 3, 2017 at 11:52 am - Reply
Hello!
Depending on how much you take it in. If only an inch or so I’d say no, but if more you may also want the lining tightened up too.
Thanks,
– Paul
JohnFebruary 17, 2017 at 1:13 pm - Reply
See AlsoA Guide to Understanding The 3 Types of Suit VentsSuit Buttoning Rules For Men | Right Vs Wrong Way To Button Your Blazer | How To Wear Your Single-Breasted & Double-Breasted SuitsSingle Vent vs Double Vent Suit JacketsBlazer VS Suit Jacket: the difference between men's suit jacket and blazerThis is very helpful!
Question – can the size of sleeves be trimmed? I have a jacket or two that fit well in the torso but are a bit baggy in the sleeves, particularly the forearm because of small wrists.
Thanks!
Michael OxmanFebruary 20, 2017 at 10:03 am - Reply
Thanks for the question, John.
A sleeve can be tapered in the same way a trouser leg can. There’s a seam that runs down the center of the back of the sleeve that your tailor can work off of. I suggest wearing your best-fitting shirt with you to the tailor when you bring the jackets in to ensure the most accurate sleeve fit.
Hopefully this is helpful!
Best,
Mike
Justin WilsonFebruary 27, 2017 at 10:47 pm - Reply
Great, informative guide! Question – what do you think about letting out a half-canvassed jacket about 1″ – 1.5″ in the chest only?
Thanks for the advice.Michael OxmanFebruary 28, 2017 at 10:16 am - Reply
Thanks for the comment, Justin. Glad you like the guide!
As it happens, there is no extra material to let out in a jacket’s chest to let out. The best you’d be able to do is let out the center seam in the back, though it’s difficult to say whether or not that would solve your issue. You may have to look at another jacket altogether.
jimMarch 23, 2017 at 2:38 am - Reply
hi do I have to ulter the side vents when I ulter the jacket smaller thank you
Michael OxmanMarch 23, 2017 at 11:54 am - Reply
Hi Jim,
Thanks for the comment. If by “making the jacket smaller” you mean taking in the sides, then no alterations should be necessary for side vents.
KrysJune 20, 2017 at 1:42 pm - Reply
My fiances jacket came in and the shawl lapel was suppose to be black, but instead is navy blue. They offered to fully refund us, however we love the jacket. So we want to see how difficult it would be to change the lapel from navy blue to black?
Michael OxmanJune 21, 2017 at 8:07 am - Reply
Hi Krys,
Thanks for the comment. That’s unfortunate about your fiancée’s jacket. The short answer to your question is that it’s probably too expensive and time-consuming to perform such an alteration, assuming it’s even possible. Here’s the long answer.
As it’s got a shawl collar, I assume that it’s a tuxedo jacket and as such has a silk or grosgrain “facing” on the lapel. If you know a HIGHLY competent tailor, I would suggest talking to him/her as it’s possible that the facing can be switched out. The catch is that you will likely have to source the fabric yourself (costing you money), and due to the time-intensiveness and precision of the work, a tailor would likely charge a premium. Advanced work on a collar/lapel often runs into the triple-digit price range.
Again, this is based on the assumption that the alteration is even possible.
I also assume that this is the jacket he intends to wear to your wedding. My suggestion is that if you have enough time before the big day, take the refund or at least exchange the jacket for one with the correct lapel.
Hope this was helpful, and please keep us posted!
Donna ClarkeJune 29, 2017 at 1:14 am - Reply
My husband has one shoulder lower than the other, which was not a real issue until recently, as it has become more pronounced and is affecting the fit of his suit jackets quite visibly. On my last fabric/notions visit to New York, I picked up several pairs of excellent shoulder pads along with extras for the right shoulder. I’m a proficient seamstress and can put them in with no problem, but an acquaintance who does more tailoring than I has said that I’ll have to re-position the right sleeve and drop the hem on it to accommodate for the uptake. When I pinned in the additional padding, I didn’t see where this would be necessary at all – the drooping shoulder was causing the jackets to look lopsided, and the uptake from the extra pad sure looks to have fixed the problem. In the 2 jackets I made for him, I put in extra padding on the right shoulder during construction, and they are the only 2 that hang properly,so I don’t see where the re-position and hem dropping is necessary. Should I just go with my instincts and eyes and insert the new pads and build-ups? We’re talking 9 jackets here – I don’t mind doing the pads, but don’t want to waste time if all this extra work is required. Thanks!
Michael OxmanJune 29, 2017 at 1:30 pm - Reply
Hi Donna,
Thanks for reaching out to us! We appreciate the vote of confidence.
Short answer: if it looks good to your trained eye, it’s fine. Trust your gut. With that said, your tailor friend may have a point.
A shoulder pad will take care of the uneven slope issue, but the side being padded will obviously be “raised,” thus “shortening” the sleeve in relation to the shirt cuff. As such, lengthening the (in this case) right sleeve might be necessary. If this is so, then you would want to lengthen the sleeve by the same amount as the thickness of the pad. If it’s a half-inch pad, for example, you’d want to lengthen the sleeve a half an inch. This is assuming that the sleeve is the proper length in the first place, which is why I say your friend “may” have a point.
The suggestion about re-positioning the sleeve isn’t something I’ve ever seen as related to added shoulder padding, unless you did so in such a way that altered the sleeve pitch negatively. If this happens, I’d avoid it as removing and re-attaching sleeves is quite a work load.
My only other suggestion is to make sure the pad is pressed before inserting it into the coat. This is to avoid an unintentional sleeve lengthening after the first time the jacket is pressed.
I hope this was helpful, and please keep us posted as to how things turn out!
All the best,
Mike
KathyJuly 25, 2017 at 5:21 pm - Reply
Hi!
Can a men’s suit jacket sleeves be hemmed above the split ? The sleeves need to be hemmed 4 1/2 inches.
Michael OxmanJuly 26, 2017 at 7:41 am - Reply
Hi Kathy,
Thanks for reading. When you say “above the split,” I assume you mean above the sleeve buttons where the “split” in the sleeve ends and both panels are joined by a seam.
If that’s the case, the short answer is, “theoretically yes, though it’s uncommon.”
If the sleeve buttons are not functional this alteration can be done, though again it’s uncommon to take off so much material. If the sleeve buttons are functional, you would lose that functionality in shortening it, as shortening from the shoulder would be impossible due to the amount of material to take out.
Does the jacket fit well in other key areas, or is this the only alteration needed?
Thanks again for reading!
-Mike
KathyJuly 26, 2017 at 10:34 am - Reply
Hi Mike
Yes. That was exactly what I meant ???? The jacket doesn’t need any other alterations he is a large guy. I believe I will need to taper the sleeve somewhat so that It will match when I turn it up as well as interface it so the sleeve will hold it’s shape. It doesn’t look like I will have enough material to put another split in it to make the vent. ????
Kathy
KathyJuly 26, 2017 at 10:43 am - Reply
Mike
Sorry I forgot. The sleeve buttons are not functional. So it’s not an issue. I know that I haven’t encountered shortening the sleeves so much before. I thought about shortening it from the shoulder but he has large arms in girth just not length.
Michael OxmanJuly 26, 2017 at 1:25 pm - Reply
Hi Kathy,
If the sleeve buttons are non-functional, that puts you in a much better position. If he’s a big guys, shortening from the shoulder might not be a good idea even if it were feasible, as he likely needs all the space around the armhole he can get.
I’ve only ever heard of using interfacing when sleeves had to be lengthened more than the extra material would typically allow, so I can’t speak to that. It absolutely makes sense that you would have to taper the sleeve, as the opening would be too large otherwise. Creating a new vent in the sleeve may be a foregone conclusion, but it’s much more important to have the length be correct, as you clealry seem to know.
I hope this was helpful!
Donna ClarkeOctober 16, 2017 at 10:51 pm - Reply
Hi, Mike: just wanted to let you know that the extra padding in the right shoulder of all of my hubby’s jackets worked beautifully! I took your advice and pressed them all first, which has certainly helped. Only 3 of the jackets needed the sleeve hem dropped, which was no problem at all. Thanks so much for your advice, it’s greatly appreciated!
Michael OxmanOctober 17, 2017 at 11:37 am - Reply
Thanks for keeping us posted, Donna! Glad we could be helpful.
Best,
Mike
Claudette RobertsonOctober 20, 2017 at 9:37 am - Reply
A friend of my husband’s has asked me to make him a size 70 sport coat. I’ve searched for a pattern in that size. No luck! Is there a way to enlarge a smaller pattern to make a size 70? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thank you,
ClaudetteMichael OxmanOctober 23, 2017 at 8:04 am - Reply
Hi Claudette,
We will reach out soon via email. Many thanks for reading!
Best,
Mike
MeresithDecember 6, 2017 at 11:51 pm - Reply
Hi, Paul. My husband’s suit jacket is too wide at the shoulders. I do alterations myself but have never tackled a suit jacket. Is there any way this problem can be fixed by taking in the center seam in the back?
Michael OxmanDecember 7, 2017 at 8:59 am - Reply
Hi Meredith,
To the best of my knowledge, taking in a center seam will not do much, if anything, to correct jacket shoulders that are too wide. If this is in fact that case, the alteration required would be reducing the shoulder points. As this alteration is what we consider “major surgery,” please be careful as/if you go ahead and do it!
Thanks,
Mike
NoelDecember 12, 2017 at 12:08 pm - Reply
Dear Mike,
Good day!
I just bought my 1st (& probably only) suit; it is an off the rack piece, size 46, side vented, super slim fit (as the label says. im a 42, but the cut of my suit on the 42 was too restrictive.). i just love the texture, as it is black with miniature grey dots, which makes it look like a medium-dark grey as a whole. Now, off to my queries…
1. I have some very slight wrinkling on my right shoulder. I tried on a larger suit on purpose, and this was also the case, so I assume the jacket isn’t too tight. So, how thick of a pad should I put it without pulling the entire right arm up? or might you have any other suggestions?
2. I need to take in about half an inch both sides at the waist, and about an inch on the sleeves. How do I deal with the waist, & do I have work done on the sleeve hem? (side note: not surgeon cuffs).
3. The jacket front has an open drop(?), an inverted V-shaped opening below the 2nd button till the rounded flaps (?) on the jacket bottom. The left flap seems to be about half an inch longer (so, it is lower) than the right flap. Can this be fixed, or should I just leave it out? My jacket ends where my bum meets the thigh, so I am considering shortening it to raise it about 1.5 inches.
Thanks for reading this one out!
Michael OxmanDecember 12, 2017 at 3:34 pm - Reply
Hello Noel,
Thank you very much for reading and reaching out! Congratulations on buying your getup too; little makes us happier than a new suit. Based on the information you’ve given me, I would get a recommendation for a competent tailor who is local to you (ask a well-dressed friend, consult Yelp reviews, etc.). Visit with him/her and discuss these issues, and let the tailor help you decide whether it makes sense to do these alterations.
My best answers to your questions are below:
1. Without seeing a picture, this is difficult to diagnose. Is the wrinkling is along your trapezoid muscle or at the top of the sleeve? Typically, shoulder pads are used to correct uneven shoulders (which nearly everyone has), so I can’t say with certainty that this alteration would be the solution here.
2. Any competent tailor should be able to take in a jacket waist and shorten its sleeves, especially if those sleeves don’t have functional buttons. You absolutely should shorten the sleeves if they’re too long; this is an easy alteration and will improve your appearance markedly.
3. The inverted V-shape you’re describing isn’t necessarily an issue; some jackets have it, others don’t. If the left front panel hangs visibly lower than the right, that would indicate to me that the suit is not in line with your posture. My first course of action would be to try a shoulder pad in the left shoulder with the hopes of raising the left panel of the jacket enough to appear even with the right. I would not shorten the jacket if at all possible, as this alteration is difficult, expensive, and irreversible. Given that it hits right where your rear end meets the thigh, I’d say it’s an appropriate length.
I’m sure this response has generated more questions but I do hope it’s helpful. Please reach out again if we can be of further assistance.
All the best,
Mike
NoelDecember 12, 2017 at 5:26 pm - Reply
Dear Mike,
Thanks for the quick response!
To clarify a few points:
1. The slight wrinkling is somewhere middle of the shoulder line from my neck to the my right arm.
2. Ok I’l forego the jacket shortening. I’ll look at the sleeves, though.
3. If I pad the left shoulder, I’ll be defeating the purpose of my 1st question for my right shoulder. Since it is off the rack, is it worth it to re-shape the left flap?
Many thanks!
Michael OxmanDecember 20, 2017 at 9:42 am - Reply
Hi Noel,
Not a problem! Thanks for sending along some clarifications.
Now that you’ve given me a better idea as to the wrinkling on the right shoulder, I advise not attempting any alterations to it. Any attempts to correct that would likely be considered “major surgery” by a tailor and thus be rather expensive and probably not worth the investment on an off-the-rack suit. As you initially described the wrinkling as “very slight,” I’d say leave it be.
With regard to the lower-hanging left panel, I wouldn’t have it re-shaped, but would try the shoulder pad option first. This will also raise your sleeve a bit, meaning that it won’t have to be shortened as much.
All in all, I suggest that you seek out a reputable local tailor and discuss this work in-depth. It’s difficult to say without seeing the suit on you, but it sounds like there’s potential for major alterations here, and I don’t want to suggest undertaking those until you speak to the person who would actually be doing the work. I’m also disinclined to advise you to do the bare minimum alterations without seeing the suit on you.
It may make sense to do these alterations, and it may make sense to return the suit or exchange it for something that syncs better with your build and posture. Please keep us posted as to the results of your tailor visit!
Best,
Mike
MarKJanuary 14, 2018 at 12:40 pm - Reply
Hi,.
I had multiple suits made for me while visiting in Europe. I chose center vent because I always felt that they cover my hips better. Recently, I purchased a suit with double vents for the first time in long years. I was always opposed to double vents because they always tend to open up on the sides. However, this particular suit did not because there was some kind of curvature in the bottom fabric of the vent so the flap always covered it well. Anyways, this made me think about the possibility of altering my bespoke center vent suits to double vents.
Can you please advise
Thanks
Trevor GuildayJanuary 15, 2018 at 5:45 pm - Reply
Hi Mark,
Great question!
While it is technically possible add vents to a suit jacket it is not recommended. For starters, it would be a very difficult alteration which could result in ruining a great suit and it would likely be too expensive to justify the cost.
It is possible to close the vent or vents on a jacket to make it “ventless,” but adding a vent is not advisable.
Cheers,
Trevor
ManuelMarch 9, 2018 at 11:12 am - Reply
Hello, Mark.
I enjoy very much your posts and have two questions for you.
I have a couple of off the rack suits size 40, but I have gained some weight and now I am a 42 size and I would like to know if there is any chance of altering them by letting out (if there is enough fabric) so these suits to fit me. I tried to feel with my fingers if there was some excess of fabric but I couldn’t.
One of the suits is a double breasted 4×2 peak lapel. Can this one be altered into a single breasted peak lapel.
Thanks,
Manuel
Charles-PhilippeMarch 12, 2018 at 6:11 am - Reply
Hi Manuel,
Thanks for your kind comments.
With regards to your first question, it’s not the easiest job to do and hard to say whether it’s possible. If the jacket features a single vent, then it will be possible providing that there is enough fabric. If it is a double vent, it may be possible also but costlier too.
As for you query regarding converting jackets from double to single-breasted. I personally don’t know but I would hazard a guess that it would be a difficult job as a double-breasted jacket is converted to “hang” around the body in a particular way. Changing this would be costly as you’d also have to take in the lapels and overall fit of the jacket. This may have some odd results unless the tailor is very good at their job.
However, the best way to find out is finding a tailor or seamstress who specialises in alterations. Bring them the jacket and ask them the same questions as you asked us and see what they say. Let us know too as we’d be very interested to find out!
Best,
CP
SashaMarch 21, 2018 at 12:34 pm - Reply
Hello,
Could you please give me advice on how can this be fixed, if possible. The edge of the lapel is curling upwards once the suit jacket is on. Is there a way to make it lay flat as it should?
Thank you very much in advance,
SashaPaul AnthonyMarch 21, 2018 at 8:58 pm - Reply
Dear Sasha,
This is a tough one without seeing the jacket. I’d assume it one of two things, 1) the jacket might be too small / your chest too big, or 2) there may be something not “standard” off the rack with your posture or reverse shoulder roll (shoulder rolling backwards, causing chest to Pop” forward and lapels to curl upwards).
Hope that helps…
Either way the jacket may be a no go, and / or may need to look at something a bit more custom / made-to-measure.
Thanks – Paul
GlendaApril 4, 2018 at 7:29 pm - Reply
Your blog is great and it is so amazing that you respond to all these questions! My husband is going to be in an Indian wedding and they ordered a sherwani type jacket for him. His chest measures and 40 so we ordered a 42 but it is still too snug, and takes two people to get it on so he can get his arms in it (I think it is too small in the upper back and chest. There is no seam down the back but a seam under each arm. Will letting these out fix our problem? We can’t return it and need to just make it work for the wedding (ceremony and pictures only), could we insert more fabric into the seams under the arms?
Charles-PhilippeApril 5, 2018 at 4:05 am - Reply
Hi Glenda,
Thanks for your kind words!
I see the sort of jacket that you mean and I understand your distress! Letting those seams out would probably fix the problem in a pinch. However, it’s better to take it to a professional to see if (and how quickly) it can be altered.
Best of luck!
CP
Eric OakesApril 18, 2018 at 12:57 pm - Reply
Hello – I recently bought a new suit. I purchased two jackets. One 40L and one 38R (38L not an option). My question is, which am I better off altering? The 38 is a better fit through the middle, but I need the sleeves lengthened. The sleeve length on the 40 is just right, but the jacket feels too large.
Charles-PhilippeApril 18, 2018 at 1:56 pm - Reply
Hi Eric,
If there is enough material in the sleeves for lengthening, go for the 38R! Lengthening sleeves alone a much easier job and one of the cheapest too. Meanwhile, changing the rest of the 40L jacket will be a huge endeavour and quite costly.
All the best,
CP
MarcJune 20, 2018 at 10:23 pm - Reply
Hi Mike,
I really need an expert opinion on this. I have to have my suit jacket shortened, and I’ve read everywhere that this will throw-off proportion since it could bring the pockets too close to the bottom hem. But no one ever says what is ” too close”. I am 5’7″. What is the closest tolerable distance of the top of the pocket flap to the hem? Help!Best,
MarcCharles-PhilippeJune 21, 2018 at 3:15 am - Reply
Hi Marc,
This is hard to say without seeing the jacket as it depends on the cut itself. If the jacket is altered too high, you lose the shape of the waist and the jacket could look quite boxy. If I were you, I’d take the jacket to a tailor or a professional that offers alterations so they can see it for themselves.
All the best,
CP
AlessandroJune 26, 2018 at 11:40 am - Reply
Hello,
First of all, congratulations for the amazing website! I have a suit coat whose collar tends to stand away about 1/4” from the back of my neck; in general the collar feels a bit loose when compared to other jackets I own, in which the collar really sticks snugly against my shirt collar.
The gap can’t be seen from the front and the collar seems to stay in place at the sides, it’s only a bit large at the back.
My question is: how likely is to have it successfully altered to fit better? (If I manage to find a tailor willing to do that here in UK!)Thanks so much!
Al.Charles-PhilippeJune 27, 2018 at 3:26 am - Reply
Hi Alessandro,
Thanks for your kind words!
If the collar is standing away, it’s probably because the coat is too loose around the shoulders. Does the jacket have one, two or no vents? If it has none or just one, it’ll be work for a tailor to alter but probably still doable. The area of the collar, lapels and shoulder is very complex as a lot of different sections of the jacket converge with their specific sizes. So there may be more work to do than just the shoulders.
However, if the coat has two vents, it’ll be very difficult and quite costly to have altered. Nevertheless, we always recommend checking with a tailor no matter what we say as it’s hard for us to judge without seeing the jacket.
Good luck!
CP
BAHAA A SEIREGDecember 19, 2018 at 5:04 pm - Reply
Hello,
What would you say is the maximum distance from the center of the bottom sleeve button to the end of the sleeve? I have some jackets where the distance is 2.25 inches.
Thanks,
BahaaCharles-PhilippeDecember 20, 2018 at 6:27 am - Reply
Hi Bahaa,
This varies depending on the tailor or brand. However, I’d say that it would be never more than 3 inches. That said, I am speculating somewhat. Longer lengths are usually from off-the-rack, though, as this is made so that alterations would be easier.
Best,
CP
Bilal ahmedMarch 3, 2019 at 12:10 pm - Reply
Hello,
I got the tailor to do make the jacket slimmer by taking in the centre seam but now the jacket bunches a bit in the middle of the upper back. Any idea how to fix it?
Charles-PhilippeMarch 4, 2019 at 6:42 am - Reply
Hi Bilal,
This suggests to me that the jacket was taken in at the waist but wasn’t properly taken in all the way up to account for this. I would take it back to the tailor and see what he could do.
Best,
CP
SamMarch 24, 2019 at 12:24 am - Reply
Hi there,
I have a jacket where the shoulders do not extend far enough across – it’s too slim. I don’t like when it hangs off my shoulders but this is just too slim – is there anything that can be done?
Thanks!
Charles-PhilippeMarch 25, 2019 at 9:33 am - Reply
Hi Sam,
To be honest, it might be really difficult to do anything at all. It largely depends on whether there’s any excess material to bring them out but it’s unlikely. If it’s a double vent jacket, this will be even harder. If it’s single vent, it might be doable.
I suggest taking it to a good tailor and asking their opinion.
All the best,
CP
Tsilizani NdauJuly 23, 2019 at 5:20 pm - Reply
Hi,
I have just had a suit jacket altered on the waist. The problem is that the middle part the vent look crumpled. What should the tailor do?
Charles-PhilippeJuly 23, 2019 at 5:33 pm - Reply
Hi Tsilizani,
Sounds like the tailor may have slipped up there. Sometimes this happens if the jacket needs taking out too much but a good stitch should keep it smooth. I would take it back to see if he can fix it.
Best,
CP
SwatiDecember 14, 2019 at 11:21 am - Reply
The coat is made a little short by the tailor..I want to know can the coat length be increased
Charles-PhilippeDecember 17, 2019 at 9:29 am - Reply
Hi Swati,
It’s unlikely that this can be done. If there is somehow some extra material, it could be achieved but it will be expensive. You’ll want to see a tailor and ask them but I expect that the chances are slim.
Best,
CP
MaureenAugust 13, 2019 at 11:33 am - Reply
It is good to find a site which is so helpful. I wonder if you can answer my simple query (but I can’t find the answer).
Is it acceptable to use a bound buttonhole on a man’s linen jacket? Or does it have to be a stitched one? Thanks in anticipation. I am a home sewer.Charles-PhilippeAugust 22, 2019 at 6:56 am - Reply
Hi Maureen,
Bound button holes tend to be featured on coats as opposed to suit jackets. That said, I don’t see why not if it’s used in a subtle way. However, most suit jackets (linen or otherwise) will have stitched boutonnières.
Best,
CP
Maureen HutleyAugust 27, 2019 at 11:21 am - Reply
Many thanks. I did a few trials and found I could make an excellent buttonhole on my sewing machine. Just one buttonhole did not seem to justify practicing by making dozens of hand sewn buttonholes, and the bound one did not seem right on a linen jacket. It is good to have your reply to my question and the knowledge is stored away in the brainbox for future reference.
Charles-PhilippeAugust 28, 2019 at 2:59 am - Reply
Hi Maureen,
Happy to have helped! A lot of sewing machines are well-equipped with tools and patterns for making buttonholes so I’m glad it saved you a fair bit of time. I’ve tried hand-sewing buttonholes and it’s a nightmare!
All the best,
CP
NedAugust 31, 2019 at 11:12 am - Reply
Excellent information, thanks for your efforts.
In buying second hand suits of a higher quality, (oxxford, zegna etc) that have been purchased bespoke or previously altered, how much room would a good tailor leave to reverse the changes?
In particular, the sleeves. Most jackets I’ve purchased new have longer sleeves closer to 26″ (this is on 44/46R) and I have to get them shortened to 25″. In this example, jackets that have been shortened to 24″ where I would need to have the sleeves let out the extra inch. Is there typically going to be sufficient fabric to do this?
I know some tailors will cut away the excess fabric when taking in/shortening, but I’m just interested in standard practice by better tailors. In shortening to 24″ would the tailor have left most of the original fabric in the 26″ cut?
Similarly, if pant legs have been taken up how much room is typically available without loosing the cuffs? 1″ , 2″?
Thanks again
Charles-PhilippeAugust 31, 2019 at 5:46 pm - Reply
Hi Ned,
Delighted that you enjoyed the guide. It’s difficult to answer your questions because, as you say, it really depends on the tailor. That said, when taking in things like trousers and sleeves, it’s rare that much extra material will be left.
Unlike the waist, it’s unlikely that the client will want them changing during the course of their lifetime and they rarely take into account future owners. This is especially the case when it comes to bespoke clothing.
You might have a couple of centimetres in case the alteration would have been too drastic and the tailor would have had to let them out again. However, I wouldn’t expect much to work with. That said, I could be wrong and there may be an inch or so to play with.
All the best,
CP
BlueSeptember 22, 2019 at 5:32 pm - Reply
I love both this guide and the other on pants! It is a very nice guide for me to use when tailoring my own clothes so I can know what I should try and avoid having to do if possible. Mostly the lapel part as I was planning to alter them a bit, but now I will likely leave them be until everything else fits nicely.
I got a jacket and a few pairs of pants that kind of fit at thrift stores to alter to hopefully fit. Buying new was out of the question as I’m so small that none will come close to fitting off the rack and I am not about to pay full price for clothes I have to alter significantly to fit. I have a ton of experience sewing so might as well make use of it and skip paying way too much for a custom made suit.
Charles-PhilippeSeptember 23, 2019 at 3:58 am - Reply
Hi Blue,
Great to hear that our guides have helped you so much! If you ever want to try the custom experience, we have reviewed a few good quality but affordable brands. However, you’re right to make the most of your sewing experience. There’s no better way to appreciate the clothes you wear than to have worked on them yourself!
Best,
CP
tinaOctober 1, 2019 at 7:19 pm - Reply
What is a crown lift at the shoulder please
Charles-PhilippeNovember 5, 2019 at 4:09 am - Reply
Hi Tina,
I believe that this refers to the amount of padding in the shoulder but I confess that I’m not entirely sure!
Best,
CP
DpDecember 26, 2019 at 9:12 pm - Reply
I have a window pane type print on my jacket. It has 3 places to take it in on the back. The vent is in the center. The seamstress took it in from al3 3 areas. The window pane lines/ pattern doesn’t line up anymore. Is this something that can be taken in and still keep the patterns lined up?
Charles-PhilippeDecember 27, 2019 at 6:03 am - Reply
Hi DP,
Unfortunately, I doubt that much can be done about that. The cloth was initially cut to line up for a specific size. By altering it, it’s unlikely that even a skilled tailor will be able to ensure that they remain properly lined up. Did you ask the seamstress about this?
Best,
CP
Fatema SutarwalaMarch 4, 2020 at 1:44 am - Reply
Are you guys situated in Mumbai?
Charles-PhilippeMarch 4, 2020 at 4:59 am - Reply
No, we’re a digital men’s lifestyle publication. Although we have office in America and Europe, we’re mostly based online.
Best,
CP
RonApril 12, 2020 at 12:16 am - Reply
Hi CP,
I’m having trouble decided on whether to go with a 42 or a 44 jacket. I bought one sport coat of each size to compare. Both fit, the 44 would need more tailoring around the waist and length of the jacket. The 42 is perfect length and maybe just a touch taken in the waist but the shoulder area is definitely more snug but not to the point of causing any lines. My chest measures 43” so I’m inbetween sizes. The 44 has more material in the chest area that would probably need to be taken in a touch. I honestly can’t decide which size to go with. Shoulder being the most important, should I have it feel more roomy like the 44 or have it feel more fitted as with the 42? Thanks!
Charles-PhilippeApril 14, 2020 at 6:19 am - Reply
Hi Ron,
I think that your best bet would be to go for the 44. I think that you’ll have better results altering the 44 even if the process will be slightly costlier. Although the 42 doesn’t appear too tight, would it be comfortable to wear throughout the day? It’s entirely up to you and what you’re prepared to do before wearing the garment.
All the best,
CP
DaveDecember 30, 2020 at 8:13 am - Reply
Hi,
I just got a jacket which seems a bit tight in my armpit. Can something be done with this?
Kindest regards,
D.
Paul AnthonyJanuary 2, 2021 at 3:31 pm - Reply
Dear Dave,
Thank you for your comment.
Maybe! But it’s really hard to know without opening up the jacket to see how much fabric there might be at the seams to let out.
I’m afraid your best bet is to take it to a tailor and do some exploring!
Cheers – Paul
JamesApril 5, 2022 at 1:52 pm - Reply
Hey CP and Dave,
Have the prices for alterations increased significantly since you wrote this article? I have some nice suits (eg. 1980s Britches of Georgetown) from my father and am interested in having these tailored. However, he has a larger frame, including wider shoulders and slightly shorter arms. My guess is that we’re 1-2 suit sizes different (he wears 16, 34 in dress shirts, while I wear 15, 34-35), but it’s been years since I got measured for a suit. Do you think it’s worth altering his old suits or better to go with Indochino or a similar brand? I’d like to spend less than 600 on a new suit or tuxedo.
Thanks,
JamesRafael DominguezApril 5, 2022 at 5:51 pm - Reply
Hey James,
We adjusted the prices reflected on this page within the past two years, however, given that seemingly all products and services have increased in price over the past 6-12 months, it’s possible that they’re a bit on the low end of today’s price ranges.
In my opinion, it’s likely going to be worthwhile to take your father’s suits to a tailor and see what they quote you as far as alterations. Indeed, we’re not dealing with just an off-the-rack suit, they’re being passed down to you and the sentimental value has no price. If you can tailor them to fit well, it’s likely that wearing them will be a lot more satisfactory than buying a new suit.
Regarding the suit or tux for <$600 - first, make sure you know what you want. A tux will never be as versatile as a suit simply due to the formality, so perhaps opt for a dark suit that could work for lenient black-tie affairs. On the other hand, if you know you're going to be attending a number of black-tie events, the tux is likely the best choice. We generally recommend Indochino as we think the experience and quality are unbeatable for the price. Also, remember that our code "Bespokeunit" will give 10% off and help support us in the process!Hope this answers your questions, if not feel free to reply.Rafael
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